October 31, 2012 17:54
| Food and Drink
As New Yorkers piece together their lives after their vibrant city was smashed by mother nature this week, what better way to pay homage to the Big Apple than by indulging in some proper American dining.
, the newly opened venture from Supperclub’s Mark Cutler, promises just that. As you enter via a small doorway on Hollywood Road in Chelsea
, you’ll find yourself among worn brown leather seats and original rock ‘n’ roll music posters, including the one from Stones number one, Honky Tonk Woman, naturally.
The restaurant is dotted with white reclaimed swimming pool tiles, mismatched Ercol tables and chairs and reclaimed Japanese ship lights, all of which add to the atmosphere.
The cocktails have to be your first port of call – we tried a Wibble, which was a heady mix of gin, sloe gin, grapefruit and lemon juices, topped off with a generous helping of blackberry liquor - and stonkingly good. The Honky Tonk, basically a suped-up mint julep, also hit the spot after a long day. You could easily while away several hours working your way through the list, but frankly it would be a shame: the food here is great.
We started with beef ribs, which the server told us are something of a rarity in London, and they were easily enough for two. Two bones gave way to a veritable mountain of meat which had been marinated in Brooklyn beer and slathered in barbeque sauce, and came served with the restaurant’s own apple slaw.
For mains, the Cornish crab with shrimp gumbo and corn bread hit the spot, even if it takes a surgical approach to eat, and the Not Fried Chicken with great chips went down a storm. This is comfort food at its best.
Desserts are predictably American – the pecan pie and cheesecake were both good, but not as startling as the preceding courses.
There are plans for live music and entertainment at Honky Tonk, with a particular emphasis on a variation of the blues, jazz and rockabilly played over a hundred years ago when the first ‘honky tonks’ appeared in the United States, which is just what you need as the nights start drawing in. For now though, you can raise a glass to New York, in a corner of London.
A three course meal for two is around £80. Cocktails are £7.50.