It is evident the moment you step through The Palm’s doors that this is a restaurant where people go to show off. It’s full of businessmen in suits, thrashing out a deal over the impressive food. But that is by no means a criticism, given that there’s plenty to show off about.
It’s a strange mix of Belgravia opulence and laid back Florida dining – the room says relax, and the menu says it means business. There are irreverent cartoons of the place’s more famous patrons on the wall, and booths if you wanted a little more privacy.
The Palm takes Americanism seriously, and as the chain’s only outpost this side of the Atlantic, it’s flying the flag for a nation.
The menu is chock full of classics and the selection of steak is particularly impressive. When we asked the size of a 2lb lobster, one was brought clicking and snapping to our table, having been flown in from Nova Scotia that morning. You don’t get much fresher than that.
The starters – frankly, just something to stop us gnawing our arms off while we dreamed of cow – were lovely.
Fluffy gnocchi served with golden saffron, wild mushroom and asparagus spears, and a plate of chicken liver pate were both tasty and comforting.
For mains, the filet steak didn’t disappoint. Super thick and buttery, with a deep taste, it was hearty and satisfying. The poor lobster’s misfortune was definitely our gain: succulent flesh served unhindered by any garnish and with just a butter sauce to dunk bits in was an outstanding treat.
Greed took over and we ordered sides of creamed spinach, green beans and chunky chips. All were wonderful, but we didn’t finish them.
Puddings are classic as well, and despite wanting to order a plate of donuts we resisted and went for the more refined option of the Key Lime Pie. The waiter told us it’s flown in from Key West specially – and if you’d closed your eyes to the typical British January outside, you could almost imagine you were there.
It only seemed right to have a Californian red – when in Rome and all that – so we chose a brilliant cabernet sauvignon for £51. It was well worth the money: deep and rich and a perfect complement to the beefy food.
The Palm is ostentatious, brash, hearty and welcoming. It’s everything brilliant about American food, served with style. A real indulgence.
Three course dinner for two with wine is around £180.
Rhiannon Bury
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